Skip to main content
Donate to the 95 years appeal
Introducing skirret – a long-forgotten vegetable
Despite being tasty and nutritious, this root veg did not fit into the capitalist mould, so never won the popularity of the more durable potato, writes MAT COWARD
[Neslihan Gunaydin / Creative Commons]

IT TASTES good, it’s nutritious, it’s easy to grow and you can harvest it more or less all year round. So why isn’t skirret better known?

The answer, I suspect, lies in the transition from one mode of production to another: skirret (Sium sisarum) is a vegetable well suited to gardeners growing for their own use. But it doesn’t lend itself to capitalist agriculture, which requires, amongst other factors, uniformity of product and a decent shelf-life. Skirret doesn’t keep well, doesn’t travel well, is of unpredictable size, shape and quality, and it’s fiddly to clean before cooking.

The potato, on the other hand, fitted into the industrial revolution like a jigsaw piece, meeting the needs of busy, hungry, dispossessed proletarians and of the landowners. Potatoes are easy to market and to use. As a result, many of our traditionally popular root crops disappeared, at least until the allotment movement.

The 95th Anniversary Appeal
Support the Morning Star
You have reached the free limit.
Subscribe to continue reading.
More from this author
HISTORY MADE: A plaque at the Old Bailey dedicated to the case of William Penn and William Mead — and the jury who acted on their conscience
Features / 2 September 2025
2 September 2025

The heroism of the jury who defied prison and starvation conditions secured the absolute right of juries to deliver verdicts based on conscience — a convention which is now under attack, writes MAT COWARD

CAUSE AND EFFECT: Maturing apples and and apple pie / pics: (L to R) George Chernilevsky and Roozitaa both CC
Gardening / 16 August 2025
16 August 2025

As apple trees blossom to excess it remains to be seen if an abundance of fruit will follow. MAT COWARD has a few tips to see you through a nervy time
 

‘SEDITION AND BLASPHEMY’: (L to R) Blackfriars Rotunda, 1820 - view from the top of the Albion Mills; a political rowdiness / Pic (L to R): Frederick Birnie; Old and New London both Public domain
Politics / 15 August 2025
15 August 2025

While an as-yet-unnamed new left party struggles to be born, MAT COWARD looks at some of the wild and wonderful names of workers’ organisations past that have been lost to time

crime
Crime Fiction / 12 August 2025
12 August 2025

Timeloop murder, trad family MomBomb, Sicilian crime pages and Craven praise

Similar stories
Tree spinach
Features / 12 April 2025
12 April 2025
Well, MAT COWARD did, and here’s his introduction to it
Gardening / 8 March 2025
8 March 2025
It’s a dead easy crop to grow and can be made into one of Britain’s best sauces. MAT COWARD explains how
ARTICHOKES GALORE: (L to R) Growing in a allotment and cooke
Gardening / 3 January 2025
3 January 2025
Although there’s not much growing in the garden in January, globe artichokes are worth a try if you follow these tips from MAT COWARD
Garlic chives on a plate
Gardening / 9 November 2024
9 November 2024
MAT COWARD declares this plant to be one that ‘everyone should grow’