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Oventic: a postcard from Zapatista-land
From the jungle regions of of Chiapas, southern Mexico, MILES ELLINGHAM visits a village in the autonomous territory held by the Zapatistas, 25 years into their revolution
Chiapas now consumes more Coca Cola than any other Mexican state in a country that consumes the most Coca Cola, per capita, in the world

THE Ejercito Zapatista de Liberacion Nacional, EZLN (Zapatista Army of National Liberation) is, more or less, the same age as I am. In 1994, two years after Francis Fukuyama prophesied the “end of history” and chronic renewal of Western liberal democracy, a body of mostly indigenous farmers from the Mexican state of Chiapas, led by a radical university professor, attempted to keep history afloat, at least for a while.

Though their imprint on Mexican politics has been dwarfed over the past two decades by the ascendance of the various narco-warlords, the EZLN embody a resounding refutation of globalised, corporate hegemonies and their branding, their holding-out against the Mexican army, their sustained control of Chiapas territories, goes to show how transformative a focused strategy of civil resistance can be.

Most Mexicans know two things about the Zapatistas. Firstly, that they aren’t easily pleased — the EZLN continues to criticise successive governments, including the current Obrador administration, for ignoring environmental issues.

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